This book is written for graduate students, researchers, and practitioners in the fields of coastal engineering, nearshore oceanography, and marine geology. Although the treatment inmany chapters is rather mathematical, it is hoped that our message does not get swamped by the delivery.
Following that half-oentury of pioneen'ng developments, research continued at a relatively slow pace until the amphibious landings in the Second World War emphasized the need for a much better understanding of wave initiation and growth due to winds, the conservative and dissipative transformation mechanisms occurring from the source area to the shoaling, and the breaking processes at the shore…