There has been a remarkable increase in the scientific and engineering literature dealing with the coastal zone during the 20 years since publication of the first edition of this text. To suggest that the present edition is a “revision” is therefore something of an understatement. In 1976 when the first edition was published, little was known concerning the patterns of wave transformations …
There is a vast literature on the topic of sediment transport, and, generaily, the contributions to it fall into three categories: descriptive marine geological, process-oriented oceanographic, and empirical engineering. I admit this is a rather sweeping generalization but so often the engineering literature starts with dimensional reasoning and then obtains results from experiments to produce …