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Beach Processes and Sedimentation Second Edition

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There has been a remarkable increase in the scientific and engineering literature dealing with the coastal zone during the 20 years since publication of the first edition of this text. To suggest that the present edition is a “revision” is therefore something of an understatement. In 1976 when the first edition was published, little was known concerning the patterns of wave transformations and dissipation within the surf zone and how these water motions produce cross-shore movements of sediment resuiting in beach-profile variations. Profile responses to storms had been documented, but there was little understanding of the underlying causes. By 1976, suggestions had been made that edge waves might be an important form of energy in the nearshore, responsible for the generation of rip currenis and for the rearrangement of beach sediments into crescentic bars. At that time, however,no direct measurements had been made ofedge waves on ecean beaches to verify that they actually exist outside of the Jaboratory, and this uncertainty resulted in much debate as to their relevance. This debate has been muted by the clear documentation of the presence of edge waves in the nearshore and that they often contain substantial amounts of energy. We continue to explore their roles in cuntributing to the transport of sediment in the nearshore and their effects on the beach morphology. These are only a few examples of research advances during the past 20 years, and many others could be cited touching on almost every aspect of beach processes and sedimentation. In writing this text I was faced with a large volume of literature from scientific and engineering journals and conference proceedings, more than I could satisfactorily summarize in the text while maintaining the total number of pages reasonable and the product readable. Of course, I read many more papers than could be cited and in the end had to select for inclusion only representative publications covering each of the topics. These have tended to be the historic publications (the “first” contribution), those that made significant and lasting contributions, and finally I have tried to cite at least one recent paper that establishes the “state of the art” on the topic and from which the rcader can derive an up-to-date list of relevant references. My choices of papers to be summarized were often subjective, so I apologize to the researchers whose important publications have been left out. The primary intent of this book is to serve as a textbook in college courses. At Oregon State University I participate in the teaching of two courses that cover this material. One is taken by advanced undergraduates (juniors and seniors) having various backgrounds and graduate students who come mainly from Engineering and our Marine Resource Manage. ment Program. The objective of that course is to present an introductory Overview of beach processes, relying almost entirely on the contents of this book with only a few additional reading assignments. Some students who enter the course are concerned about whether they have sufficient mathematical skills. Much to their relief, this book is not especially mathematical, generally reguiring only algebra and trigonometry. This is because derivations are not included, my goal being to present the results of the derivations and discuss what they mean physically and how they actually agree with the real world. The second course I teach at Oregon State University presents a more advanced treatment of beach processes and is designed for science and engineering students who intend to specialize in coastal research or its applications. Here the students are expected not only to cover the introductory material contained in the text but also are assigned original journal papers where they are expected to absorb more of the details of the research. Comparatively few original publications can be reviewed during a one-term course, so the expectation is that this apprcach will initiate a continuation of self-motivated reading, guided by the summaries presented in the text. In that respect, this new edition should also be of service to established scientists, engineers, and individuais concerned with coastal-zone management. With the growth in the volume of literature, increasing each year, we have tended to become more specialized, giving attention only to that literature immediateiy relevant to our own research. My hope is that this text will serve to provide an updated yet comprehensive review of the total subject for even the most established researchers.
I am indebted to many people who have assisted me during the several ysars involved in preparing this second edition. My colleagues Robert Holman, William McDougal, and Repgie Beach have been of immense help, first in discussing the topics, clearing up my guestions regarding specific points in the literature, and finally in reviewing chapters. I especially want to thank the many students who gave this book the acid test and guickly demonstrated any weaknesses in presentation. David Reinert undertook nearly all of the figure drafting and photography reguired in the preparation of this edition. Thanks also to the following reviewers: George P. Burbanck, Hampton University, Robert G. Dean, University of Florida, Anthony J. Bowen, Dalhousie University: and Christopher T. Baldwin, Sam Houston State University. Finallv, I would like to thank the people who generously suppiied me with original photographs and diagrams.

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Ketersediaan

Informasi Detail

Judul Seri

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No. Panggil

551.457 Kom B ed.2

Penerbit

New Jersey : Prentice Hall International., 1998

Deskripsi Fisik

x, 548 hlm. : ilus ; 25,5 cm

Bahasa

English

ISBN/ISSN

978-013-7549-382/0-13-754938-5

Klasifikasi

551.457

Tipe Isi

-

Tipe Media

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Tipe Pembawa

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Edisi

Ed.2

Subjek

Ocean Waves
Marine Sediment
Coast Changes
Tides

Info Detail Spesifik

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Pernyataan Tanggungjawab

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Versi lain/terkait

Lampiran Berkas

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