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Coastal and Estsuarine Sediment Dynamics
There is a vast literature on the topic of sediment transport, and, generaily, the contributions to it fall into three categories: descriptive marine geological, process-oriented oceanographic, and empirical engineering. I admit this is a rather sweeping generalization but so often the engineering literature starts with dimensional reasoning and then obtains results from experiments to produce empirical relationships with little apparent attempt to relate the results to the natural environment. Conversely, the geoiogical literature establishes some very good pnysical concepts but fails 10 guantify them sufficiently to turn them into valid theories. The oceanographic approach is to consider the driving fluid processes in the absence of a satisfactory view of the sedimentary response. Of Course there are very notable exceptions to the above statements. This book is an attempt to bring together some elaments of these three approaches: to establish an overall descriptive framewerk from ihe geologists, io pui in experimentai results and theory from ihe oceanographers, where possible, and to bridge the gaps with empirical resuits from tne engineers where the theory is inadeguate. Because of the complex interactions between the fluid, the bed, and the particles in the fuid and on the bed, it is very difficult to achieve a complete flowing logic through the book. It is impossible to avoid a certain amount of repetition, or dropping a topic at a certain point, to take it up again later in a slightly different context. Waves are almost ubiguitous, yet it is simpler to treat tidal currents and waves separately, in most cases of importance, of Course, the two act together. Nevertheless without understanding them separately, there is little chance of understanding their interaction. Similariy cohesive and non-cohesive sediments are considered separately, even though there are large areas of the sea bed where the sediments are cohesive until they move, and are non-cohesive until they are deposited. My objective was to provide a text book with the minimum of complex mathematics and derivations, but one which explains the concepts, which can then be carried forward by the reader to a further level of understanding by reference to the literature. The expert reader will probably note that some of their favourite references are missing. This is partly because I have had to choose in order not Io produce an inordinately long and complex book, and partiy because I defy any one person to have actually read and understood all the literature. Unfortunately, much of the engineering literature is not readily applicable to the sea and has been omitted as a conseguence. This book is aimed at complementing the many other textbooks in the field rather than replacing them. Since writing the manuscript the excelient book by Sleath (Sea Bed Mechanics, Wiley-Interscience) has been published, which I think actually adds to this book, rather than detracting from it, and vice versa. This book has reguired considerable effort from many other people besides myself. As the reader will be aware, I have drawn extensively on the published results of work carried out in the last twelve years in the Sedimentation Grop of the Institute of Oceanographic Sciences at Taunton-the group that JI had the good fortune to lead. That Group has now unfortunately dispersed (not of their Own volition) but hopefully it will reform with the same zeal elsewhcre. I would like to thank all the members of the Group for their contributions over the years but specifically to several for their comments on drafts of the manuscrip:: Alan Carr, Alan Davies, Tony Heathershaw, Nick Langhorne, Richard Soulsby and Tim Smith. Also I would like to thank Paul Komar and Ian Robinson for their comments, and Dorothy Crostor for all the typing and collation. The mistakes and misunderstandings remaining are mine. Last, but not least, I wish to thank British Rail for space and time for the background reading, and thank the many hotels in whose bedrooms the writing was done.
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